Vogue Girl Posted May 6, 2020 Posted May 6, 2020 Quote ONE OF TODAY’S MOST SOUGHT-AFTER FASHION PHOTOGRAPHERS GIAMPAOLO SGURA HAS SPENT NEARLY TWO DECADES AS ONE OF FASHION’S LENS MEN. HIS ARCHIVE SPANS INDUSTRY TRENDS, CELEBRITY PORTRAITURE, CULTURAL REFERENCES, AND CAPTURES SOCIETY’S PREVAILING WINDS, BUT JUST DON’T CALL HIS PHOTOGRAPHY ART. “NEVER CONFUSE FASHION WITH STYLE AND SEX WITH LOVE,” SAYS THE ITALIAN PHOTOGRAPHER. HIS MISSION STATEMENT, WHICH COULD EARN HIM A SMALL FORTUNE IF PRINTED ON A T-SHIRT, REFERS TO HIS BELIEF THAT FASHION IS FLEETING. HIS JOB IS TO CAPTURE THE MOMENT, AND HOLD A VIEWER’S GAZE. “AFTER FIVE OR SIX TIMES HAVING SEX WITH SOMEBODY IT CAN BECOME MECHANICAL, WHEREAS LOVE ENDURES.” IT’S AN HONEST STATEMENT IN AN INDUSTRY THAT CAN ERR ON THE PRECIOUS SIDE. HIS WORK OF LEGIBLE YOUNG AND SPIRITED PICTURES SIMULTANEOUSLY APPEAL TO A SEVENTEEN-YEAR OLD GIRL SCANNING INSTAGRAM, OR A WOMAN FLICKING THROUGH THE PAGES OF VOGUE WISHING TO BE TRANSPORTED ELSEWHERE. SPEAKING TO THE IMAGE-MAKER WHO IS DOWN TO EARTH, TO THE POINT AND FRIENDLY, AND NO FUSS, IT’S APPARENT ONE NEEDS TO UNDERSTAND HIS JOURNEY IN ORDER TO UNDERSTAND HOW HIS SHOTS HAVE BECOME THE SUBJECT OF VOYEURISTIC FASCINATION. SGURA WAS BORN IN PUGLIA INTO AN AGRICULTURAL FAMILY THAT PRODUCE OLIVE OIL. HE KEENLY REMEMBERS BEING FASCINATED BY FASHION BUT HAD NO IDEA HOW TO ENTER THE ELUSIVE WORLD. THERE WAS NO CAREER BLUEPRINT, AND HE ADMITS HE DIDN’T REALLY KNOW HOW TO ENTER THE FASHION ARENA. “THE IDEA OF BECOMING A FASHION STYLIST OR EVEN A DESIGNER WAS TOO FAR REMOVED FROM MY WORLD,” HE SAID EXPLAINING HIS MOVE TO MILAN AT EIGHTEEN TO STUDY ARCHITECTURE. HE CREDITS THE COURSE WITH INTRODUCING TO A CREATIVE SCENE THAT GRADUALLY LED TO A SELF-EDUCATION IN FASHION AND THEN FINALLY PHOTOGRAPHY, ALTHOUGH HE ADMITS HIS DREAM IS TO ALSO DESIGN. HE CITES RICHARD AVEDON AND IRVING PENN AS INSPIRATIONS, BUT IS CAREFUL TO UNDERLINE HIS VISION IS CENTERED IN THE PRESENT, PARTICULARLY WITH HIS STUDIO WORK. LIKE PENN, HE OFTEN DEVISES PLAIN BACKDROPS FOR HIS PORTRAITS, FOCUSING HIS LENS ON THE WOMEN AND ULTIMATELY HER CLOTHES, BUT FUELING THE FRAME WITH HIS FRESH ADRENALIN. THERE’S CERTAINLY NOTHING MECHANICAL ABOUT HIS PICTURES. THE PHOTOGRAPHER SAYS HE’S UNABLE TO WORK UNTIL HE’S FELT THE CLOTHES, SELECTED THE ACCESSORIES AND SEEN THE MODEL WITH HER HAIR AND MAKE-UP DONE AND DRESSED. “I CAN’T WALK INTO A STUDIO, SET THE LIGHTING AND THEN ASK THE MODEL TO ARRIVE, I’M JUST NOT THAT SORT OF PHOTOGRAPHER, I NEED TO BUILD THE SCENE, AND EVERYONE IS DIFFERENT HE SAYS REJECTING A CALCULATED SET IN FAVOR OF RAW EMOTIONAL RESPONSES. HE ADDS, BUT DON’T GIVE ME SOMEONE NAKED BECAUSE I DON’T KNOW WHAT TO DO,” UNDERLINING HIS OWN STRICT SELF-IMPOSED TERMS THAT FOCUS ON A PHOTOGRAPHIC ENGAGEMENT COUPLED WITH THE BUSINESS OF SELLING GARMENTS. HIS SHOTS SELL. SGURA ALSO SPEAKS ABOUT THE INFLUENCE OF STEVEN MEISEL ON HIS PORTFOLIO. HE ADMIRES HIS CHAMELEON QUALITIES AND HIS ABILITY TO ADAPT AND CAPTURE AN EXCITING IMAGE, WHERE THE CLOTHES DON’T GET LOST. AND THIS IS FUNDAMENTAL TO HIS WORK. “I WANT TO BE COMMERCIAL, IT’S NOT A DIRTY WORD IN MY BOOK,” HE SAYS, REFUSING TO TAKE A LOFTY VIEW OF HIS PROFESSION. IT’S A CANNY OBSERVATION AND A SMART CAREER MOVE. ESPECIALLY WHEN ONE CONSIDERS THAT FASHION REMAINS, FOR ALL ITS LIP SERVICE TO INNOVATION, A CONSERVATIVE INDUSTRY. THIS ATTITUDE HAS IN NO WAYS IMPINGED ON HIS SUCCESS, AND HIS PHOTOGRAPHS REGULARLY APPEAR IN VOGUE PARIS, VOGUE JAPAN, VOGUE GERMANY, VOGUE SPAIN, VOGUE BRASIL, TEEN VOGUE, ALLURE, INSTYLE U.S., HERCULES , G.Q. CHINA, G.Q. SPAIN, INTERVIEW GERMANY AND CANDY MAGAZINE. HE’S ALSO SHOT ADVERTISING IMAGES FOR GIORGIO ARMANI, DOLCE & GABBANA, MOSCHINO, VERSACE AND ROBERTO CAVALLI. CAMPAIGNS DO MORE THAN SHOWCASE CLOTHES. THEY TELL A STORY OF THE BRAND, AND HIS ITALIAN HERITAGE AND OBSERVANT MANNER ARE AN INTEGRAL PART OF HIS SUCCESSFUL PHOTOGRAPHIC PARCEL. SGURA’S MEMORABLE SHOT OF AN ICE BLONDE (VIEW EDITORIAL) IS REMINISCENT OF MUCH OF HIS WORK, AND A CLASSIC ILLUSTRATION OF WHY CLASSY SUSPENSE IS WORTH MORE THAN SURPRISE. CENTERED IN THE FRAME, THE ENIGMATIC HEROINE, WELL DRESSED AND SEXY FIXES THE CAMERA WITH A SMOLDERING GAZE, PEERING OUT OF AN OPEN WINDOW. ALL WE KNOW OF SGURA’S MYSTERIOUS LADY IS THAT SHE IS LOOKING FOR SOMETHING AND SHE’S WEARING GREAT CLOTHES. “IN MY OPINION, MY PHOTOS DON’T NEED TOO MUCH INFORMATION. IT IS MORE INTERESTING TO ME WHEN THE VIEWER USES HIS OR HER IMAGINATION, AND FILLS IN HIS OR HER OWN STORY TO THE PICTURE.” WHAT ONE DOES TAKE AWAY THOUGH IS THAT THE LADY IN QUESTION IS STRONG, POWERFUL AND RECALLS THE TRADITION OF ALLURING ITALIAN WOMEN. “I WORK BETWEEN MILAN AND NEW YORK, I WAS BORN HERE (ITALY) AND HAVE A LOT OF SUPPORT FROM ITALIAN FASHION DESIGNERS, AND SURE, THERE ARE SOME PASSING ITALIAN FILM REFERENCES LIKE, FEDERICO FELLINI, VITTORIO DE SICA, AND NEO-REALISM IN MY WORK.” GESTURES AND STORY TELLING ANIMATE THE ENSEMBLE OF SGURA’S INCLUSIVE PICTURES THAT ARE REGULARLY FEATURED IN FASHION PUBLICATIONS AND BIG-ADVERTISERS, ATTUNED TO HIS GLAMOROUS PERSONAL LANGUAGE. STYLISTIC MAGAZINES LEAVE HIM COLD, AND HE ADMITS HE’S NEVER CHASED THE COOL SCENE. OF ITS TIME, HIS VISUALS HAVE A SENSUAL QUALITY, WHICH RELATES TO HIS EARLIER MISSION STATEMENT ABOUT FASHION RESEMBLING THE BASIC NATURE OF SEX. DECLINING TO CALL HIMSELF A ROMANTIC, THE GENESIS OF HIS IMAGE-MAKING LOOK IS HIS UNABASHED AFFECTION FOR FASHION’S SURFACE OBSESSION, AND SURELY THIS MAKES HIM ONE OF FASHION’S MOST INTRIGUING PUPPET-MASTERS. IN KEEPING WITH HIS ITALIAN HERITAGE HE SEES HIS WORK AS PART OF THE FAMILY, SO MUCH SO THAT WHEN ASKED IF HE HAS A FAVORITE IMAGE, HE REPLIES, “THEY ALL MEAN A LOT TO ME, I’M PROUD OF THEM ALL.” Kerry Olsen giampaolosgura.com Quote
Vogue Girl Posted May 6, 2020 Author Posted May 6, 2020 Vogue Paris September 2011 "Zoom" Model: Sigrid Agren Photographer: Giampaolo Sgura Stylist: Geraldine Saglio Hair: Christoph Hasenbein Makeup: Adrien Pinault Manicure: Christina Conrad storemags.com via visualoptimism @ tfs Quote
Vogue Girl Posted May 6, 2020 Author Posted May 6, 2020 Vogue Japan October 2011 "Beauty: 'Call Her Diva'" Model: Crystal Renn Photographer: Giampaolo Sgura Stylist: Anna Dello Russo Hair: Andrew Guida Makeup: Jessica Nedza models.com Quote
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Vogue Girl Posted May 6, 2020 Author Posted May 6, 2020 Vogue Paris February 2012 "Bijoux: Prénom Carmen" Model: Kendra Spears Photographer: Giampaolo Sgura Stylist: Geraldine Saglio Hair: James Pecis Make-up: Christelle Cocquet blog.naver.com/skalty Quote
Vogue Girl Posted May 6, 2020 Author Posted May 6, 2020 Vogue Spain April 2012 "Born in the USA" Model: Kasia Struss Photographer: Giampaolo Sgura Stylist: Sara Fernández Hair: Seb Bascle Makeup: Adrien Pinault Manicure: Akari blog.naver.com/skalty (originally scanned by Zhanna @ tfs) Quote
Vogue Girl Posted May 6, 2020 Author Posted May 6, 2020 Vogue Japan June 2012 "Healthy New Direction" Model: Aline Weber Photographer: Giampaolo Sgura Stylist: Aurora Sansone Hair: Davide Diodovich Make-up: Yuka Washizu zinio.com via visualoptimism @ tfs Quote
Vogue Girl Posted May 6, 2020 Author Posted May 6, 2020 Vogue Japan December 2012 "Fur Regal Reasons" Photographer: Giampaolo Sgura Model: Kendra Spears Styling: Anna Dello Russo Hair: Katsuya Kamo Make-Up: Jessica Nedza Nails: Annarel Innocente amazon.co.jp (Cover) & zinio.com via Mat Cyruss @ tfs (Editorial) Quote
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Vogue Girl Posted May 6, 2020 Author Posted May 6, 2020 Vogue Japan April 2013 This Festival Of Life Photographer: Giampaolo Sgura Model: Bette Franke Styling: Anna Dello Russo Hair: Andrew Guida Make-Up: Jessica Nedza blog.naver.com/skalty Quote
Vogue Girl Posted May 6, 2020 Author Posted May 6, 2020 Vogue Japan May 2013 I'll Be At The Beach Photographer: Giampaolo Sgura Models: Magdalena Frackowiak, Suzana & Suzane Massena Styling: Anna Dello Russo Hair: Andrew Guida Make-Up: Jessica Nedza blog.naver.com/skalty Quote
Vogue Girl Posted May 6, 2020 Author Posted May 6, 2020 Vogue Germany April 2013 Folk Dandy Photographer: Giampaolo Sgura Model: Karlina Caune Styling: Christiane Arp Hair: Tomohiro Ohashi Make-Up: Jessica Nedza Nails: Elsa Durrens blog.naver.com/skalty Quote
Vogue Girl Posted May 6, 2020 Author Posted May 6, 2020 Vogue Spain June 2013 A Su Imagen Photographer: Giampaolo Sgura Model: Anja Rubik Styling: Sara Fernández Hair: Franco Gobbi Make-Up: Jessica Nedza Nails: Rebecca facebook/VogueEspana via GlamVal @ tfs (Cover) & blog.naver.com/skalty (Editorial) Quote
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Vogue Girl Posted May 6, 2020 Author Posted May 6, 2020 Vogue Spain October 2013 Son Solo Negocios Photographer: Giampaolo Sgura Stylist: Claudia Englmann Model: Kasia Struss Hair: Franco Gobbi Make-up: Benjamin Puckey blog.naver.com/skalty Quote
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Vogue Girl Posted May 6, 2020 Author Posted May 6, 2020 Vogue Germany December 2013 "Schnee-königh" Photographer: Giampaolo Sgura Model: Julia Stegner Styling: Christiane Arp Hair: James Rowe Make Up: Jessica Nedza Nails: Annarel Innocente vogue.de via Mat Cyruss @ tfs (Cover) & blog.naver.com/skalty (Editorial) Quote
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